Introduced as Patek Philippe’s new luxury sports watch after the successful launch of the Nautilus in the 1970s.

The Neptune was launched in 1996 with the tagline, “Ideal for sportswear, the supremely elegant Neptune is, at the same time, the perfect dress watch.” The Neptune’s moderately sized 36.5 mm case, classic dial, and elegant leaf hands highlighted its dressy aspect. On the other hand, its 30 meter depth rating, crown protectors, and robust engine-turned bezel infused it with a sporty character.

The release of the Neptune coincided with the introduction of the Aquanaut. While the latter was instantly popular—partly because Patek indicated it would be a limited edition variation on the Nautilus—sales of the Neptune lagged and this wonderful hybrid was discontinued in 2005. The upside, of course, is that the Neptune can still be picked up for a reasonable price while prices of the Aquanaut have gone through the roof in recent years.

This reference 5080 from the early '00s features a 36.5 mm steel case and a beautifully, discoloured, tropical dial. The dial sports a closed painted minute track in the centre with 5 minute indications on the outside and large applied 18k yellow-gold Roman numerals at the quarter positions. The dial’s distinguishing colour and looks are complemented by large leaf hands and a discrete date window at the 3 o’clock position.