Some prefer the understated stainless steel Nautilus, while others gravitate towards the rather more extravagant 18k yellow gold version, adorned with 112 diamonds. This ref. 3700/13 is certainly not for everyone, but that's precisely why we love it.

When Gérald Genta designed the Nautilus, he helped take Patek Philippe in an entirely new direction. Introduced in 1976, the Nautilus was an oversized luxury sports watch at a time when the very concept was still rather unconventional, earning it the nickname ‘Jumbo’. Its distinctive case shape, inspired by a ship's porthole, combined with an integrated bracelet, gave Patek Philippe a completely new identity. The ref. 3700 was where it all began.

The example we have here dates back to 1982, by which time Patek Philippe had switched to Atelier Réunis for the production of its bracelets. This second-series construction features longer links and a more pronounced taper, arguably giving it a slightly more elegant appearance. Despite being well over four decades old, the bracelet has survived remarkably well. In fact, that would be putting it mildly. Its condition is nothing short of extraordinary, especially considering the delicate nature of these vintage constructions.

As beautiful as the bracelet is, the real attraction is, of course, the diamond-set bezel. A yellow gold Jumbo Nautilus is already a rare sight, but examples with factory-set diamonds take exclusivity to another level. The /13 designation refers to a bezel adorned with 112 brilliant-cut diamonds, transforming an already iconic design into something considerably more flamboyant. When light catches a single diamond, its facets produce a little sparkle of their own. Now multiply that effect by 112, and you'll understand why this Nautilus is rather difficult to ignore.

Fortunately, the condition of the case is every bit as impressive as the diamonds surrounding its dial. The 18k yellow gold retains exceptionally sharp lines, preserving the distinctive geometry of Genta's design. Even the subtle facets on the lugs remain clearly defined. Turn the watch over and you'll find beautifully legible hallmarks, further testament to how well this example has been preserved. Despite its rather extravagant appearance, the Nautilus remains surprisingly discreet in its proportions. Its remarkably slim profile makes it an absolute pleasure to wear, even if the diamonds might attract a little more attention than you're accustomed to.

Inside beats the automatic Patek Philippe calibre 28-255 C, a legendary ultra-thin movement based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre 920. This remarkable ébauche also found its way into other icons of the era, including the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 5402ST and the Vacheron Constantin 222. Creating an automatic movement this thin, complete with a date complication, remains an impressive technical achievement even by today's standards. Now consider that the underlying movement was first introduced in the late 1960s, and its significance becomes all the more apparent.

Completing the watch is the classic blue embossed sigma dial, featuring applied baton hour markers with tritium accents. The dial is exceptionally well preserved and corresponds to what Nautilus scholar Marco Stanga classifies as a ‘Type 3 Bis’. Originality is particularly important with early Nautilus examples, as many dials were replaced during servicing over the decades. We're therefore delighted to find the original dial still in place, beautifully complementing the warmth of the yellow gold case and the brilliance of its diamond-set bezel.

There is something wonderfully unapologetic about this particular Nautilus. The original design was already a bold departure for Patek Philippe, so why not take things a little further? This 1982 ref. 3700/13 combines one of the most celebrated watch designs of the twentieth century with a healthy dose of extravagance, without sacrificing any of the elegance that made the original so successful. This exceptional example is accompanied by its original Patek Philippe Certificat d'Origine.