Among the many exotic dials Rolex experimented with in the 1980s and 1990s, few are as arresting as the so-called “Grossular” stone dial. Carved from deep red garnet, its surface shimmers with natural inclusions and tonal variations, ensuring no two are alike. These dials were notoriously fragile to cut and finish, leading to very limited production numbers and frequent imperfections.

This Day-Date reference 18238, produced in 1996, presents the Grossular dial in its purest form. Flawless, without the cracks or hairlines so often seen on surviving examples, and accented by factory diamond-set hour markers. The deep crimson stone sits within a sharp 18k yellow-gold case, framed by a fluted bezel and matched to a solid President bracelet with tight links. Spanish day and date discs add the final cosmopolitan touch.

Inside beats the caliber 3155, Rolex’s double-quickset movement, marrying technical practicality with the elegance of the stone dial.

Offered as a complete set with its original box and papers, this 18238 is more than just a rare configuration; it is one of the very few Grossular Day-Dates that has stood the test of time without compromise. A watch for collectors who understand that rarity is one thing, but condition is everything.