Rolex GMT-Master 16713 'Sultan, Ruby Serti'

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From a purists’ point of view the combination of a toolwatch with gem-setting is an odd pairing. Yet, the extra touch of luxury feels oh so right on this jet-setting pilot’s watch.

This two-tone ref. 16713 from 1990 is executed in a svelte stainless steel Oyster case and comes on a stainless steel Oyster bracelet with polished 18K yellow-gold center links. The 18K yellow gold rotating bezel features a black anodized aluminium inlay with charming yellow Arabic numerals.

The classic champagne-colored dial features beautiful round diamond-set hour markers interspersed with baguette-cut sapphire markers on the 6 and 9 positions as well as a triangular sapphire at 12. This configuration is sometimes known as a ‘Sultan dial’, although the term ‘Serti dial’ is more commonly used by Rolex as well as collectors. Serti derives from the French sertissage, meaning gem-setting. So, technically, all Rolex watches with gem-set dials feature sertissage. However, among collectors, Serti refers specifically to Submariners, GMTs, and Yachtmasters with factory-set diamond, ruby, and sapphire indices.

While the eye is immediately drawn to the gem-setting, there is another important detail to be found on this dial. As Rolex shifted from using the radioactive tritium luminous compound to the safer (non-radioactive) Luminova compound, it briefly marked these new dials with “SWISS” at the six o’clock position. After one to two years a new mark (“SWISS MADE”) was introduced. As a result, these ‘Swiss only’ dials are quite uncommon and therefore collectible as well.

This 16713 GMT-Master II runs on the upgraded caliber 3185 automatic movement with the convenient option to separately adjust the 24-hour GMT hand in addition to a quickset date function. The watch is in excellent condition with a thick case, sharp lines, tight bracelet, and near mint bezel inlay.


Fasten your seatbelts for the story of the inimitable Rolex GMT-Master! As civil aviation took off after World War II, airlines began to fly over longer distances. As a result, pilots required accurate watches that could display multiple time zones simultaneously. In the early 1950s, Pan American Airways (Pan-Am) requested Rolex to develop a watch for this very purpose. The GMT-Master (‘GMT’ standing for ‘Greenwich Mean Time’) was introduced in 1954. It featured a 24-hour hand alongside the regular 12-hour hand. In combination with a bidirectional 24-hour bezel, this GMT hand could be used to read the home time zone while the 12-hour hand displayed the ‘local’ time. Despite its close links to aviation and its professional purpose, the Rolex GMT enjoys a fanbase far beyond the pilots it was originally intended for. Over the years Rolex has introduced many wonderful variations of the GMT: take your pick!



Packages are generally dispatched within 2 days after receipt of payment and are shipped within the Netherlands by Registered Mail through the Dutch carrier PostNL and for other countries by Fedex. Consult us if you prefer another method of shipping. For most destinations tracking is available.