Breguet Type 20
If I would say Breguet, what kind of watch would you think of? Typically, there are two styles they are known for, which are very far apart. On the one hand they made name for themselves among the aristocrats, with their distinguished and highly finished or decorated timepieces. But on the other hand, they’ve excelled in providing purpose-build chronographs for the military. The latter will be what todays watch guide is all about: the Type 20.
History
First, we must dive into the company’s history -and more importantly the Breguet family- to understand why and how they were able to become successful in the field of horology; on both ends of the spectrum.
The French watchmaker, Louis-Abraham Breguet, set up the business in Paris in 1775. Among his clients: Marie Antoinette and Napoleon Bonaparte, just to name a few. He became known in the higher echelons of society for building outstanding time measuring devices; as at that time, precision and punctuality was deemed a luxury. These practical aspects were also highly valued in the nautical world; hence he provided the French Royal Navy with marine chronometers in the 1800s.
The company’s focus towards aviation was heavily inspired by his great-great-grandson: Louis-Charles Breguet. He aspired something else than watchmaking but was equally successful in becoming a pioneer in his field of expertise. Together with his brother he managed to invent an early sort of helicopter: the Gyroplane. This was only the beginning. After founding Breguet Aviation in 1911, his goal was to develop the manufacturing of aircrafts. He played an important role in providing these planes to the French Military during the first and second world war. And guess who provided the dashboard clocks and wristwatches? In 1954 the firm even became the official supplier to the Aeronavale. The French Ministery of war issued the technical specifications for a pilot’s watch, which had to become part of the standard equipment of the Air Force and the Naval Aviation Forces. That is the watch in today’s spotlight and where the moniker “Type 20“ refers to. We will dissect it part by part.
Case
The case comes in around 38mm in diameter. Initially pilot wristwatches had been quite small, but this was inconvenient for the legibility. The “Beobachtungsuhren” for the Luftwaffe on the other hand, were rather big to wear on the wrist; measuring over 50mm. These time-only watches, made by Laco & A. Lange & Sohne (among others), were followed up by German military chronographs, which have many characteristics on which the French Type 20 is based.
Just like the Hanhart from Deutschland, the case was approximately 14mm thick. Apart from 3 specimens made in yellow gold, all Type 20’s are made out of steel. Multiple bezel varieties are known, the 1st generation has a metal bezel where the 2nd generations comes with a black bakelite one. Furthermore, the watch had to withstand some moist and dust, so besides round pushers, a screwdown caseback is installed. Apart from the functionality, the caseback can provide a lot of history by the engravings and stamps. For example: the contract number under which it was delivered by the government and the year or the division it was made for. Also dates alongside FG, which is the abbreviation for “Fin de Garantie”. The servicing of the movement, just like all maintenance of military equipment, was quite regular and was done via official government routes, therefore its history is often well-documented on the backside of the watch.
Dial & hands
Obviously, legibility is of importance, provided by the contrasting white print against the matte black surface of the dial. The Arabic numerals and hands have luminescent material applied for the previously mentioned reason. Multiple handsets have been used, but whether it has a “syringe” or “Baton” Style, they’re always finished with white lacquer. Depending on the movement, which we will discuss up next, it features either 2 or 3 sub-dials which are slightly recessed and sometimes carry a circular finish. Many early military-delivered Type 20’s do not feature the brandname on the dial.
Movement
Reliability and accuracy are key requirements. It should run within 8 seconds deviation per day. Also, the manual winding movement needs to have a power reserve of at least 35 hours. The chronograph complication -with flyback function- is at the heart of this project and should have the ability to operate successfully for at least 300 times. In French this mechanical feature is called “Retour en vol” and it allows the pilot to stop, reset and restart the chronograph with just one push of the lower button. Since routes were determined by a series of directions and flight times, a precise measurement of time intervals was essential. With the capability to instantly restart the chronograph -with an accuracy within one fifth of a second- the pilot could be faster when changing direction with one single push; permitting to stop, reset and start a new measurement. This way the pilot could concentrate on the flight, rather than on operating the watch.
As mentioned earlier on, it had either 2 or 3 sub-dials. The minute counter is positioned at the 3 o’clock position and additionally the hour totalizer at the 6. Within the minute counter there are 2 varieties, either totaling up to 15 or 30 minutes: on the aircraft carrier, the pilot had 15 minutes to prepare the plane to take off.
Variations and orders:
Starting off with distinguishing the Type 20 and Type XX, respectively the military and civilian chronographs. We mainly focused on the issued examples, but until 1989 one could also simply buy one in the Breguet boutique at the Place Vendome. Logically some differences are present. There are no civilian Type XX known without Breguet logo on the dial. Also, it will never feature FG stamps or contract numbers on the caseback. Lets do a countdown by rarity of units issued:
1000 units
In 1954, the French Air Force, ordered some 1000 Type 20 featuring a Valjoux movement. It was subcontracted by Breguet as the watch was assembled and the case was made by Mathey-Tissot.
500 units
In 1958 The Naval Aviation Forces or “Aéronautique Navale” also placed an order for 500 units. Including a special version with a 15-minute chronograph counter and an internal anti-magnetic case, delivered between 1960 and 1962.
50 units
From 1956 to 1957, the Centre d’Essais en Vol (CEV), in charge of testing the prototypes of French national aviation companies, ordered 50 pieces with three counters. Like the Naval Aviation Forces, the CEV also opted for a large 15-minute chronograph counter, but these have a scaled bezel instead. It also has “CEV” engraved on the caseback.
1 unit
In 1954, the 4th Tour de France automobile presents a route of more than 6,000 km, as always divided into three stages. 124 Crews are at the start on September 3 and less than half reached the finish 9 days later. The event was dominated by Gordini de Pollet and Guelfi. A mistake by the latter in the third stage ensured the final victory for the Pollet-Gauthier crew. This unique chronograph has been offered to Jacques Pollet by Shell, the main Tour de France sponsor, for his incredible victory. This accomplishment is immortalized by the caseback engraving.
Conclusion
Breguet was not the only manufacturer selected to supply these watches. Other brands that produced Type 20 models in the following years were Dodane, Auricoste, Vixa en Airain. However, the Breguet ones are the most coveted, valuable and sought-after by dedicated collectors. They are rare by default, not all too many have been made if you compare production numbers of other models by different brands; but even more so since they were oftentimes used in combat and thus many have never survived. If, both the owner and the watch, survived their battles, the timepiece would still technically belong to the French state. Hence many were returned and only few ever hitting the market. It is drenched in history, that is ever so present in its design and cool caseback markings.
Breguet still pays homage to this important period and multiple varieties have been introduced in more recent years. Obviously, none of them giving you such a special feeling like the original ones. Some of which can be seen in Breguet’s museum. If you already own such a piece of history yourself, you could reach out to them to order a document with well-kept information from their archive. Signed by “conservateur” Emmanuel Breguet, 7th generation descendant of the legend himself.