Known by many names but rarely ever seen. This esoteric masterpiece from the 50’s captivates design enthusiast all across the board.

This “Helm” model is also known by its nickname: “Gouvernail”, which refers to the design of the case; reminiscent of a ship-wheel. Even though very few have ever surfaced, there are quite some varieties, yet all with the common denominator of “T-bar lugs” and a round case with a halo and the central dial being connected by pillars. Either having rounds or bars; 12 -each for every hour- or merely 4, at the quarters. This execution has four connecting balls, but additionally displays engraved hourmarkers with black enamel on the bezel of the central dial.

The dials tend to be quite simple and straightforward. On this example we can find the brand name at the 12 o’clock. The original, slightly convex, mineral glass enhances the ivory white surface; that is close to perfect. Last but not least Cartier opted for blued-steel Breguet hands, arguably more elegant than the Sword hands one can also encounter on this model.

Smaller examples feature a Duoplan movement and have the crown on the backside, but this large 35mm execution has a manual winding EWC movement, where the stem of the crown runs through the ball. The crown with cabuchon-cut Sapphire is exquisitely integrated into the stepped case made out of 18K white gold. This exemplary Cartier comes on a beautifully crafted (presumably by a third-party) brick-style bracelet, in white gold and sports a fold-over clasp. The result is an even more appealing and strong look on the wrist.

This model, also referred to as “Ronde Squelette”, was introduced just after WWI and 31 out of the 34 known specimens were produced before the 1970’s; the lions share of which in smaller sizes. The historic retail price upon introduction was rather exorbitant as it was easily triple of most other precious metal Cartiers. With this piece having been auctioned by Phillips in 2021.

This work of art shows why Cartier deserves the moniker: the masters of shapes.