When Chopard introduced the L.U.C 16/1860 in the late 1990s, few could have predicted that it would become one of the defining dress watches of its generation. Known primarily as a jewelry house, Chopard’s move into serious watchmaking wasn’t a marketing exercise but a declaration of intent. The result was so refined, so quietly masterful, that even hardened purists took notice.

This reference 16/1860/2, produced in 1999, represents that early golden age of the reborn manufacture. The 18k white gold case measures 36.5mm across, its slim profile and polished surfaces perfectly balanced between classical restraint and modern precision. The silvered dial, crafted by Metalem, is a study in proportion: a finely guilloché center framed by a smooth chapter ring, elongated diamond-shaped indices, and sharp dauphine hands. The small seconds at six o’clock adds rhythm, while the neatly framed date window shows how understatement can coexist with practicality.

Inside beats the caliber 1.96, Chopard’s first in-house automatic movement. It’s a micro-rotor design finished to a standard few brands could match at the time; Geneva Seal certified, hand-angled bridges, and a level of decoration that puts many older maisons to shame. Visible through its sapphire caseback (or optionally, the included solid back), it’s as beautiful as it is technically sound.

The watch comes complete with its box, hang tag, and both casebacks; an elegant reminder of the moment Chopard went from jewelry maker to full-fledged haute horlogerie manufacture. In hindsight, it wasn’t just a great first attempt. It was a masterpiece straight out of the gate.