We rarely make room for a watch that doesn’t feature the Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, or Audemars Piguet name on the dial. But if there’s one person that can single-handedly make us change tactics, it has to be Gerald Genta.

If one were to compile a list of the five most important names in watchmaking in the last century, Gerald Genta’s would most certainly make the cut. Scratch that, it would most definitely sit atop that list. After all, no single watch designer can compete with the man that was responsible for such iconic watches like the Royal Oak, the Nautilus, the Bulgari Bulgari, and the Polerouter.

Genta was a prolific artist, creating thousands upon thousands of original designs over his lifetime. While he’s best known for the iconic watches he created for other brands, Genta also founded an eponymous line in 1969 that would feature his most creative designs.

This reference G.3388.7 chronograph from 1995 is instantly recognizable due to Genta’s love of geometric shapes and nautical themes. The 35 mm 18k yellow gold octagon-shaped case harkens back to a ship’s steering wheel and the large crown resembles an old-school diver’s helmet. The bezel features visible screws reminiscent of a ship’s portholes, while the sapphire crystal features a mesmerizing gemstone-like faceted effect. Meanwhile, the case is connected to a sumptuous 18k yellow gold five-link bracelet that is inspired by the Figaro bracelet on the Genta-designed Pasha de Cartier collection.

The reference G.3388.7 does not stand out solely for its case and bracelet design, but also for its magnificent dial. While many watch houses would begin to experiment with high-tech materials in the 2000s, Genta was ahead of the pack with this dial manufactured from deep black carbon fiber. The dial sports three sub-registers with recessed silver outer rings for the running seconds, as well as the 30-minute and 12-hour totalizer chronograph functions. A discrete date window is hidden between the 4 and 5 o’clock positions. The automatic movement is a derivative of the chronograph caliber Blancpain used for their 1185. The sporty handset, meanwhile, cleverly references the Patek Philippe Nautilus; one of Genta’s most famous watch designs.