Among all vintage complicated wristwatches ever created, few references occupy the same exalted position as the Patek Philippe reference 2499. Revered for its elegance, technical sophistication, and extraordinary rarity, the model has long been considered one of the ultimate expressions of twentieth-century watchmaking. Yet even within the already rarefied world of the 2499, there exist examples so extraordinary that they transcend collecting altogether. This watch is one of them.

Presented in yellow gold and fitted with a glossy black dial, this example is not merely one of the rarest configurations of one of the most celebrated wristwatches ever made; it is the only publicly known example whose extract from the Archives explicitly confirms the black dial. But to fully appreciate the significance of this timepiece, one must first understand the historical importance of the reference itself.

Introduced in 1950, the reference 2499 succeeded the legendary reference 1518, the world’s first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch. The 1518 had already established Patek Philippe as the undisputed master of complicated wristwatches, but the 2499 refined the concept into what many collectors regard as the perfect perpetual calendar chronograph; with at its heard the calibre 13”’ Q. It is based on a Valjoux ébauche but transformed entirely by Patek Philippe through extensive reworking, hand-finishing, and regulation.

With the launch of the 2499 the cases were made by Vichet and featured elongated lugs and square pushers. They gradually moved to a more contemporary aesthetic with subsequent series cases being supplied by Wenger. They were 1,5mm larger in size and received round pushers instead. Underscoring the sportier character and increasing waterproofness. This specimen belongs to the 3rd series category; which differs from the 2nd series by the dial production method and lay-out. No more raised enamel lettering and by removing the tachymeter scale it achieved a level of harmony that remains unmatched even today.

Production of the reference 2499 lasted approximately thirty-five years, ending in 1985 when it was succeeded by the reference 3970. Throughout its production, the reference remained the flagship complicated wristwatch of Patek Philippe. Across those decades, around 350 examples are believed to have been produced in total. Only a handfull of them are adorned with a black dial!

The manufacture was, and remains, one of the most conservative maisons in Swiss watchmaking. Deviations from catalogue specifications were granted only rarely, and almost exclusively to highly important clients. Such as special dial colours. The overwhelming majority were produced with silvered dials, reflecting the formal and elegant aesthetic language that defined the brand throughout the period. Black dials were considered sporty, unconventional, and perhaps too assertive for watches that Patek Philippe viewed primarily as refined evening companions. Consequently, black dials on vintage complicated Pateks are almost impossibly rare. Scholarship currently identifies less then fifteen examples across all major complicated references.

Against this backdrop, the present watch emerges as one of the most significant vintage Patek Philippe wristwatches ever to appear publicly. The effect of the glossy black dial is immediate and utterly transformative. While silvered dial 2499’s embody classical elegance, the black dial gives the watch an entirely different character. The mirror-like surface creates remarkable drama, while the gilt printing and applied gold indices establish perfect visual harmony with the yellow gold case. The result is both refined and unexpectedly modern.
Importantly, the dial itself is preserved in astonishing condition. The lacquered surface remains remarkably clean and vibrant, free from the ageing and deterioration often associated with older black dials. The gold graphics maintain exceptional clarity, producing a level of contrast that makes the calendar indications and tachymeter scale appear almost illuminated against the dark surface.

Yet, importance of such a watch lies not only in its aesthetics, but also in its provenance. The watch dates back to 1963 and was sold in 1965. When it first appeared publicly at auction three decades later, in 1994, it was fitted with a silvered dial instead. Shortly after, the watch had re-emerged with the present black dial. What might initially appear controversial becomes, upon closer examination, one of the most fascinating and convincing restoration stories in vintage horology.

Lets take a look at the documentation. The earliest extract, issued in September 1996, explicitly mentions that the watch was originally with a black dial. A second extract, dated May 1997, describes the black dial in greater detail, specifically mentioning the applied gold index, and furthermore includes the extraordinary statement: “This watch has been examined at our workshop and we guarantee the validity of the information provided.”

The chronology therefore seems remarkably clear. After receiving the 1996 extract confirming the watch’s original black dial configuration, the new custodian evidently requested that Patek Philippe restore the watch to its original appearance. The manufacture agreed, proven by the last three digits of the movement number on the interior of the dial bracing ring; a detail that unequivocally links dial and movement together and confirms that the installation was performed by Patek Philippe itself. They opted for a NOS glossy black dial, produced by Stern Freres. By the Sigma APRIOR “Swiss” signature and characteristics, the dial production is likely dated to the 1980’s. Following the restoration, Patek Philippe issued the revised 1997 extract confirming the configuration and authenticity of the watch after direct examination at the manufacture itself. In 2022 Phillips had the honour of offering this watch to the public for the second time. They also provided a new 2022 extract confirming the black dial once more.

The reference 2499 has long represented the pinnacle of vintage watch collecting. It is a watch that bridges eras; conceived during the golden age of traditional Swiss watchmaking yet possessing proportions, presence, and sophistication that remain utterly contemporary today. Collectors often describe the 2499 as the perfect perpetual calendar chronograph because it achieves what so few complicated watches ever manage: complete technical mastery without sacrificing beauty.

Yet within that already legendary lineage, this watch stands apart. Its black dial transforms the character of the reference into something almost impossibly seductive. It combines the aristocratic elegance of a mid-century Patek Philippe complication with the confidence and drama of a sports watch, creating a visual identity unlike any other perpetual calendar chronograph of its era. More importantly, it represents a convergence of rarity, provenance, scholarship, and aesthetic excellence that close to impossible to encounter.

The reappearance of this watch represents a truly momentous event for the world of horology and truly a proud moment for us. Opportunities to acquire any reference 2499 are exceptionally rare. Opportunities to acquire one of the six known black dial examples are almost unimaginable.