The reference 5040 is an underappreciated neo-vintage icon, combining a grand complication, creative case shape, and Patek’s superb finishing.

Among complications, the perpetual calendar is the one most associated with Patek Philippe. In fact, it was Patek Philippe that for the first time integrated this highly complex mechanism in a watch that could be worn on the wrist in 1925. Since then, Patek has released a wonderful line-up of classy dress watches with a perpetual calendar complication.

The vast majority of these perpetual calendars are housed in classic round cases. Patek broke with that tradition when it introduced the 5040 in 1992. Inspired by watches from the interbellum period, the 5040 was the first Patek Philippe perpetual calendar to feature a tonneau shaped case, measuring 35 mm side to side (and 42 mm lug to lug). This particular piece dates back to 1999 and is executed in 18k white gold. The case sports a sapphire see-through case back, yielding an uncensored view of the expertly finished ultra-thin automatic movement with a 21k gold micro rotor.

The black lacquered dial features 18k white gold applied Arabic numerals and elegant 18k white gold feuille (leaf) hands. The lovely recessed sub-register at the 9 o’clock position displays the days of the week and a handy 24-hour counter, while the month and the position in the leap-year cycle can be read off of the sub-register at 3. Finally, the lower sub-register incorporates a romantic moonphase indicator that is surrounded by the date functionality.

This superb perpetual calendar wristwatch has just been serviced by Patek Philippe and is accompanied by the corresponding service papers and an extract of the Patek Philippe archives. The watch comes on a black alligator leather Patek Philippe strap with an 18k white gold deployant clasp.