If you know anything about gem set Rolex pieces, you already understand that a reference defined by colored gemstones alternating with diamonds in the bezel is something out of the ordinary. But it does not end there. The Pleiade dial adds a sense of playfulness while still feeling deliberate and thoughtfully composed.

Off the beaten path reference 18148 has a way of surprising even seasoned collectors, and this particular example brings together a combination of details that feels both joyful and quietly extravagant. This reference has been produced in very limited quantities and exist with either emeralds, sapphires or -like in this case- with rubies. These complement the pleiade dial very well.

The Pleiade concept is all about creating a sense of rhythm and sparkle across what would otherwise be a traditional champagne surface. Instead of a flat metallic tone, the field is interrupted by an arrangement of brilliant cut diamonds that resemble a miniature constellation. The effect is more artistic than decorative. You get this impression of depth and motion, as if the diamonds sit on their own plane above the warm champagne background. It is a style that feels distinctly from the glamorous period in which Rolex was willing to indulge in more expressive ideas, yet it remains elegant rather than loud.

Then there are the ruby hour markers. These are not printed or painted accents. They are applied stones that bring an entirely different texture to the dial. The rubies provide a deep red contrast against the shimmering yellow champagne surface and the icy sparkle of the diamonds. Because the stones are cut and mounted in a very deliberate way, they catch the light differently from the diamonds, creating a layered composition of color and reflection. When the watch moves, the dial shifts between warm, cool, and fiery tones. It almost feels animated. This is where the watch starts to feel truly special, because the rubies are not thrown in for decoration. They complete the visual rhythm of the bezel, with its sequence of diamonds alternating with matching rubies. The bezel and dial essentially speak the same language.

Inside the case sits the classic caliber 3055, an automatic movement known for its reliability and its single quickset function. It may not be the flashiest mechanical choice, but it is robust and smooth, exactly what you want in a Day-Date meant to be worn and enjoyed rather than locked away. The watch itself has clearly been cared for with real attention. The case remains sharp with clean geometry, and the President bracelet, crafted in solid eighteen karat yellow gold, still feels tight. The concealed clasp, one of the signature touches of the President bracelet, closes with that satisfying precision that only well preserved examples retain.

All of this comes together in a watch that dates back to 1986, yet feels timeless. It is one of those pieces where every element reinforces the others. The bezel enhances the dial, the dial enhances the case, and the stones bring the entire composition to life. It is not just a rare configuration. It is a watch with a point of view, one that rewards every glance with a new detail.