The reference 1680 was introduced at the close of the 1960s, marking a pivotal moment for the Rolex Submariner as the first iteration to incorporate a date function. Early executions, distinguished by the now-iconic red “Submariner” text, rank among the most coveted vintage sports watches in today’s market.

At first glance, one might question the practicality of a date complication on a professional dive watch. Strictly speaking, it isn’t necessary. However, as recreational diving and seaside leisure grew in popularity, so too did the demand for versatile timepieces; watches that could transition seamlessly from daily wear to the pool or open sea. This cultural shift undoubtedly influenced Rolex’s decision to introduce the Date Submariner.

Produced in 1969, the inaugural year of the reference, early examples from approximately 1969 to 1973 feature the distinctive red “Submariner” printing on the lower half of the dial. This subtle yet striking detail earned these watches the nickname “Red Subs,” a trait that continues to captivate collectors and elevate their desirability. This particular example is fitted with a sought-after “Meter First” MK II dial in excellent condition. The four-line matte black dial displays beautifully aged, creamy tritium hour markers, complemented by its original matching tritium handset. The dial’s surface retains a pleasing, even texture, underscoring its well-preserved state.

The bezel, while showing honest signs of wear, has aged gracefully to a rich dark grey tone, adding character without detracting from its appeal. The case retains strong proportions, with thick lugs that have been sympathetically polished to restore definition, complete with crisp, attractive chamfers. Finally, the watch is fitted with a period-correct folded Oyster bracelet featuring a folding clasp without a flip-lock. Additionally we can supply it with a more contemporary and sturdier 93150 bracelet, to assure comfortable daily wear.