Would you look at that gilty goodness!

This beauty from 1967 is an early execution of the iconic reference 5513 Submariner. During these formative years, 5513s were fitted with so-called ‘gilt dials’. These dials were created by a galvanic coating process, in which the dial plates were first stamped with a clear coating to define the text and chapter ring, after which a black substance was applied using a chemical binding process. The resulting glossy black finish and gilt details infuse this otherwise reserved tool watch with a radiant glow.

Another important feature on these early dials is the ‘meters first’ printing, which refers to the depth rating that states the meters first and the equivalent in feet second (“200m = 660ft”). In the second half of the 1960s, Rolex switched to printing the feet before the meters to satisfy the growing American customer base. As a result, these gilt dials with ‘meters first’ printing are highly coveted among collectors.

The dial on this 5513 is in amazing condition. It features thick tritium plots that have patinated to a beautiful custardy color. Unlike later Submariners (or its sister references, the 5512 and 1680), the 5513 features only two lines of text at the top half and two lines of text at the lower half of the dial. This detail gives the 5513 a wonderful clean and understated look. Not too much, not too little: just perfect for a tool watch.

This 5513 sports a 40 mm stainless steel case that is in good condition given its age. The original black aluminium bezel has faded to a pleasing light gray color and the original stainless steel riveted Oyster bracelet is still in good condition. On top of that, the watch comes as a full set with the original box and papers.