Published February 20, 2021
Author Jasper Lijfering
Watch guide

Rolex Toolwatches

Today we have Apple, Samsung and Microsoft. Smartphones and laptops are about enough tools any one needs these days. However, some 70 years ago, people actually relied on mechanical wrist wonders. When it comes to these ‘Toolwatches’ the first brand that comes to mind is obviously Rolex. Whether you’re a pilot, diver or racecar-driver, you ought to have a sports model from this brand. At least, that was what the ads were telling you. 

The choice from Rolex to aim at these specific professional fields was no coincidence. These people all enjoyed prestige and Rolex wanted to associate their brand with successful people, as if you were only to buy a Rolex if you had made it in life. Emphasized by their slogan: “A crown for every achievement” If it was good enough for an Explorer that withstood the most challenging conditions, it was certainly good enough for you.

Rolex and harsh conditions turned out to be a perfect match. They optimized their reliability and usability over the years, with the sturdy bracelets, automatic movement and invention of the water and dust proof “Oyster case” as most important contributions.  

The demand from various professional fields rose to an all-time high in the 50’s. Now was the time for Rolex to show what they can do and use it for their marketing at the same time, as they did with the introduction of the Oyster case when Mercedes Gleitze swam across the English channel wearing a Rolex in 1927. The gamechanger was introduced in 1953 under reference 6202, better known as the Turn-O-Graph; and as the name implies it has a rotatable bezel. Whilst this wasn’t the first time, they made the Zerographe in the 30’s and Blancpain just released the Fifty Fathoms, it can be seen as the alpha model, an historical artifact, and most certainly the blueprint for the most famous watch ever! That watch and all others will be individually examined. The Turn-O-Graph is a bit of a stranger in our midst as it was later grouped under the Datejust-line. However, it does deserve an honorable mention and with its 36mm measuring case it is perfect for my wrist. 

Watches

I have the pleasure to walk you through the different lines, and I will do so in chronological order. The focus is on the very first models and examine its true origins, including the design and story.

Explorer

Rolex registered the Explorer trademark in January 1953, but it wasn’t until way later that year for the first references bearing this name on the dial first saw light. In the meantime, in May to be precise, Sir Edmund Hillary summited the Mount Everest wearing an Oyster Perpetual sponsored by Rolex. A Rolex now reached the highest point of the earth, time for Rolex to capitalize on this accomplishment and launch the 6150 and 6350! 

Most notable and iconic is the dial lay-out with the 3,6,9 in Arabic numerals. To this day this is referred to as an “Explorer-dial”, even if its features on other models like a Submariner. The Explorer wasn’t necessarily the first model to flaunt these numbers at the quarters yet they sticked with it throughout the entire production, making it the most iconic feature of this long lasting model. Different handsets were used and the dial surface could either be smooth or have a Honeycomb pattern instead. The case measures 36mm and the bezel was domed. The 6350 is chronometer certified whilst the 6150 bears the name “Precision” on the dial rather than a COSC certification above the 6 o’clock position. Although it doesn’t read Explorer on the dial, arguably the 6098 can be considered the real father. Whatsoever, the Explorer caused a peak in their reputation.

Submariner

Moving on from the Explorer that saw great heights to the bottom of the ocean, let’s dive deep into the story of the Submariner. I have already mentioned “the most famous watch ever” and whilst this statement might be up for discussion; there is little doubt about the long-standing influence of the Submariner. As it has the most iconic design it is also the most often copied watch in history. Yet the rich history of this immortalized model started quite modest. There has been quite some conversation about the first reference and the date of introduction but with confidence I can introduce you the 6204 that was commercially available in 1954. 

Rolex had to confront a number of challenges when designing its first dive watch. The watch obviously had to withstand significant amounts of pressure and had to accurately measure time spent underwater, which the first Submariner achieved by featuring a 330ft/100m depth rating and a rotating bezel with graded aluminum inlay. It also had to be easily legible in conditions of reduced visibility yet aesthetically pleasing. Hence, the Sub’s iconic luminous hour markers set against a contrasting black dial. At the 12 o’clock we can find the distinctive triangle, the quarters are baton shaped markers and the remaining hours are indicated with dots. Unlike popular belief, the first Submariners weren’t born with the “Mercedes hands” but rather Pencil-shaped ones. Both the chaptering with minute/ seconds markers as the text on the dial are gilt finished, giving the smooth surface of the glossy dial a lot of charm and depth. As for the text, it doesn’t necessarily say “Submariner”, the ones for UK market were signed “Sub-Aqua” instead. Whatever you want to call it, here is where it all started!  

GMT-Master

Fasten your seatbelt for the inimitable Rolex GMT-Master! As civil aviation took off after World War II, airlines began to fly over longer distances. As a result, pilots required accurate watches that could display multiple time zones simultaneously. 

In the early 1950s, Pan American Airways  requested Rolex to develop a watch for this very purpose. The GMT-Master (‘GMT’ standing for ‘Greenwich Mean Time’) was introduced in 1954 under ref. 6542. It featured a red 24-hour hand with a small triangle at the tip, alongside the regular 12-hour “Mercedes” handset. In combination with a bidirectional 24-hour bezel, this GMT hand could be used to read the home time zone while the 12-hour hand displayed the ‘local’ time. The watch bears the nickname “Pepsi” as the bezel has a similar colourscheme; 6PM to 6AM is in blue and from 6AM to 6PM its deep red. Notable the inlay was executed in Bakelite; an early type of plastic. Both this material used as well as luminous numerals inside the bezel-inlay are unique aspects from Rolex we won’t see on any other watch. Mainly because it was rather unpractical since bakelite is a tad fragile and the radioactive luminous material inside the bezel could leak and cause illness. Because of this reason Rolex faced a lawsuit at the end of that decade and actually did a recall on this model, making it a rare specimen. 

In addition to the multiple timezones the movement also featured a date function, displayed at the 3 o’clock position and magnified by a “Cyclops” on the crystal. Balancing the dial lay-out with the baton markers at 6 and 9 o’clock. Again we can find the triangle at the 12 o’clock above the Rolex coronet. The case measures close to 38mm excluding the crown, just like the Submariner. It was followed by the ref. 1675 in the very late 50’s. 

Milgauss

Moving through this list fast as lightning. The Milgauss is the least-known of Rolex’ legendary toolwatches. After the Genevan powerhouse released a dedicated diver’s watch (the Submariner), a field watch (the Explorer), and a pilot’s watch (the GMT-Master) in the first half of the 1950s, it turned its attention to the needs of engineers and scientists. These men and women often worked in environments with intense magnetic fields, such as power plants, hospitals, and labs. Strong magnetic fields have an adverse effect on the accuracy of watches. This meant that the people that worked in such environments either had to accept a malfunctioning watch or forgo wearing one in the first place. Rolex solved this problem by introducing the Milgauss. The name of the watch was derived from the French word ‘mille’ (meaning thousand) and ‘Gauss’ (the scientific unit for magnetism). Tests by the European Center for Nuclear Research (also known as CERN) in the late 1950s showed that the Milgauss was indeed able to withstand strong magnetic fields; an amazing technical accomplishment! This was accomplished by incorporating a Faraday-Cage to protect the movement inside the 38mm measuring Oyster case. The dial is created with woven steel, creating a beautiful waffle like surface and contributes to the anti-magneticity. 

It is thought to believe Rolex first released the 6543 in the mid 50’s and slightly later the 6541. Let’s focus on the last mentioned as it exudes its purpose best. Most recognizable is the lightning second hand, obviously referring to the field of expertise it was meant for. The rotatable bezel is graduated from 1 to 6, for no specific reason other than dividing a minute in 6 different divisions of 10 seconds. There are also examples known with a smooth bezel instead. 

These references were only produced for a handful of years and due to their specialized nature less than two hundred were produced and sold before this line was discontinued as a whole until the introduction of the 1019, making them exceedingly rare.

Daytona

Racing on to the Daytona. Rolex started making chronographs in the 1930s, but it was only in 1963 that a named product line was introduced: the Cosmograph. In some early advertisements, Rolex referred to the watch as the ‘Le Mans’ after the famous race track in France, although the name never appeared on the dial. After a few years, the line was officially renamed Cosmograph Daytona, after the racetrack in Florida.

The most noticeable difference between these Cosmograph (Daytona) models and earlier Rolex chronographs was the tachymeter scale (used for measuring distance and speed) that was moved from its traditional placement on the dial to the bezel. Furthermore, the dial was updated with the introduction of contrasting sub-dials. (with a few exceptions)

The first reference is the 6239. This 37mm measuring watch had a steel bezel with an engraved tachymeter scale. Unlike all other watches in this list, the lug-width was 19mm rather than 20mm. The manual winding movement inside is a Valjoux based chronograph that can be operated with pump pushers at the 2 and 4 o’clock position. The second hand is in the sub-dial at 9 and the other sub-dials as well as the central hand with triangle at the top are used to count the time of the chronograph function. 

It’s hard to imagine now, but Daytonas received little love after their release. Most Daytonas languished in dealer displays for years. Nowadays, Daytonas are among the most sought-after Rolex models, possibly fetching crazy prices. A big contrast with the $210 list price when it was first released!

Sea-Dweller

Does this really count as a separate toolwatch line? I mean it even says “Submariner” on the dial. Anyway, let’s dwell the depths of history regarding the 1665. During the 1960s, the needs of professional divers working at great depths led to the development of the first ‘ultra water resistant’ toolwatch. In 1967 it was developed from the Submariner for Comex S.A. (an industrial deep-sea diving company). By increasing crystal thickness and incorporating a Helium escape valve, it reached a depth rating of 610 metres (2,000 ft). The model is also distinguished by the absence of the date magnifier present on most other Rolex models, including the Submariner Date. By now Rolex used crownguards already for a while on all their toolwatches except the Daytona and Explorer.

The next step in waterproofness was accomplished in 1978 by installing a sapphire crystal, which meant the end of the 1665 and the introduction of the 16660.

Explorer II

This list doesn’t include the GMT-Master 2 as it is very similar to the GMT-Master, but the Explorer earlier in this list is totally unlike the 1655. A new chapter of the storied history of the Rolex Explorer opened with the release of the Explorer II in 1971. Another sturdy steel toolwatch but with its 40mm measuring case it was bigger and more outspoken in design features. While its smaller brother sat on the wrists of mountaineers, the Explorer II was designed for the men and women that ventured into the deepest caves and across the far poles. As it is difficult to distinguish day and night in these places and you might lose track of time, the watch features an extra hour hand and a fixed 24-hour bezel in steel so that you can always see if its daytime or nighttime.

This reference is best known by its nickname ‘Freccione,’ which means arrow in Italian, after the watch’s characteristic orange arrow-shaped 24-hour hand. The hour and minute hands also have an uncommon and peculiar design, regarding the second hand; only the first examples had a so-called “Straight hand”. But for me the most interesting part is the unusual dial. True to its era perhaps but unlike Rolex I would say. This matte dial has a lot going on at the minute track, I’m not just talking about the rectangular tritium plots for hour markers, but also the ones located in between. Production of the funkiest tool watch ceased in mid 80’s as it went on to take on a more traditional design on the 16550.  

Yacht-Master

Raise your sails for the 16628! In 1992, Rolex introduced a nautical watch named the Yacht-Master. However, unlike the Submariner, the Yacht-Master was not a divingtool but a more sophisticated piece of equipment for boating. More specifically, it was made for yachting so it had to have a luxurious look; making this watch the first professional model to be introduced solely in 18k Yellow gold instead of steel. The way of finishing clearly reveals it was more for the refined gentleman instead of someone who isn’t afraid to get his hands dirty. The Oyster bracelet has polished centre-links and unlike any other model from that era, not only the side of the 40mm measuring case but the lugs are polished too. The solid bezel has a brushed finish, in subtle contrast to the polished numerals.

When first released it sported a bright white dial with something we haven’t seen before nor ever saw again in any other model than the gold or bicolor Yacht-Masters; large black hourmarkers. It goes without saying that this black paint inside the gold hourmarker surroundings isn’t luminous, but since the Mercedes handset is; Rolex applied a small dose of tritium in a triangular shape on the dial itself. Another unique aspect of this cool piece. 

As the plot thickens Rolex added 2 more lines in the new millenium: the Yacht-Master 2 and the Sky-Dweller. Maybe my son will tell you about those in 50 years or so. Regardless, toolwatches play a significant role in today’s collectorsworld as they are, without a shadow of a doubt, the most coveted pieces and they will remain popular for decades to come since they’re exceptionally robust and their design also withstood the ravages of time. 

I Hope you learned from this video, I at least tried to make it as comprehensible and uncluttered as possible. There is so many information and opinions or views to be found, obviously none of them confirmed by the big mystery that is Rolex. In fact; I strongly believe they don’t exactly know it either since they tend to upload a lot of historical incorrect information on both their website as well as Instagram. So maybe, by now you know more than them 😉