Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800/3G

The exceptionally rare Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3800/3 ranks among the most desirable diamond-set Nautilus models ever produced by Patek Philippe. While factory gem-set Nautilus references have always occupied a special place in the maison's catalogue, examples crafted in white gold are extraordinarily scarce, with only a couple dozen believed to have been produced.

Introduced in 1981, the reference 3800 was conceived as the midsize sibling to the legendary Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A. Measuring 37.5 mm in diameter, the 3800 retained all the defining characteristics of Gerald Genta's iconic 1976 design while offering proportions that appealed to a broader audience. More than simply a scaled-down Nautilus, the reference introduced several meaningful technical improvements over its predecessor.

Most notably, the 3800 became the first Nautilus to house an in-house automatic movement, the calibre 335 SC. Unlike the original "Jumbo" ref. 3700, which omitted a seconds hand altogether, the new movement featured a central sweeping seconds hand; the "SC" standing for seconde centrale. Although seemingly a subtle change, it adds a welcome sense of animation to the dial without compromising the clean, balanced aesthetic.

Among the numerous variations of the 3800, the reference 3800/3 stands apart as one of the rarest. Distinguished by its factory-set diamond bezel and brilliant-cut diamond hour markers, it represents one of the most luxurious interpretations of the classic Nautilus design. The overwhelming majority of these gem-set midsize models were produced in yellow gold, making white gold examples exceptionally elusive. To date, only around a dozen white gold 3800/3s have publicly surfaced. Although this is the third example we have had the privilege of handling, it is the only one we have encountered in this exact configuration.

The dial is every bit as captivating as the case itself. Executed in a warm cream-coloured lacquer, it provides a beautiful contrast to the cool lustre of the white gold, lending the watch an understated elegance that is rarely found on gem-set sports watches. The traditional applied baton markers have been replaced by factory-set brilliant-cut diamonds, while the printed Greek sigmas flanking the "Swiss" signature at six o'clock ("σ Swiss σ") denote the use of solid 18-carat gold for both the hands and the diamond chatons. Completing the picture are the original hands, still retaining their tritium lume, which has developed a subtle and attractive patina over time.

This remarkable Nautilus has been preserved in outstanding overall condition. It naturally displays light signs of careful wear in the form of superficial surface marks, yet the case remains exceptionally crisp, with sharp bevels and well-defined edges throughout. Equally impressive is the integrated bracelet, which exhibits virtually no stretch; a feature seldom encountered on vintage Nautilus models and a testament to the watch's careful preservation.

Combining extraordinary rarity, factory diamond setting, white gold construction, and exceptional originality, this reference 3800/3 represents one of the most elusive and desirable vintage Nautilus models available to today's discerning collectors. Coming with the extract of the archives dating the watch to 1994.