The Patek Philippe 5131 is a modern iteration of the ingenious world time watch that was conceived by Louis Cottier in 1931.

The genius of the Louis Cottier-style world time complication is that it simultaneously displays both the local time as well as the time across all of the world’s time zones on one dial. It works as follows. The dial consists of two concentric rotating rings. The outer ring—displaying the names of the cities corresponding to each timezone—runs clockwise, while the inner 24-hour ring runs counter-clockwise. The local time zone (for instance, Moscow) is placed at the 12 o’clock position by engaging the pusher located at the upper left hand side of the case. The hands can then be adjusted to the correct time using the crown. When doing so, the 24-hour ring automatically adjusts itself to this time as well. As a result, the correct local time can be read with the hands, while the correct time in each time zone is displayed simultaneously alongside the 24-hour ring.

The ingenuity of the worldtime complication is matched by the magnificence of the dial. Not only does the dial display time in an inventive way, but it also leaves room for a true piece of art: a cloisonné enamel centre disc depicting a world map. Cloisonné enamel is an ancient technique where thin gold wires are painstakingly applied by hand. The resulting compartments are filled with enamel paste and the entire setup is then fired in a kiln, resulting in a beautiful and intricate image with lively colours. This process is highly labor intensive and requires highly skilled craftspeople.

The reference 5131G is executed in a dressy 18k white gold case, measuring a healthy 39.5 mm, and features an elegant bezel that is engraved “Patek Philippe” and “Genève”. Despite its rather large size for a dressy watch, the incorporation of an ultra thin automatic movement with a 21k yellow gold micro rotor (which can be viewed in all its glory through the sapphire crystal case back), the watch maintains a sleek profile and can still comfortably slip under a shirt cuff.

The 5131G was introduced in 2009 and discontinued after only a few years. Due to the labor intensive dial production process, only a few were made every year. As a result, this watch is one of the most collectible modern Patek’s in existence.

This 5131G comes on an alligator-leather Patek Philippe strap and an 18k white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp. The watch comes with the leather folder, booklets, stamped certificate of origin, and Extract from the Archives.