You may have heard the nicknames ‘Fat Lady’ or ‘Sophia Loren’. Both point to the same watch: the very first GMT-Master II, ref. 16760, celebrated for its fuller case profile, bolder crown guards, and wider bezel—proportions that gave the model an entirely new presence on the wrist.

As the GMT line approached its thirtieth anniversary, Rolex marked the occasion with a complete overhaul. The most significant innovation was the new caliber 3085, a movement that introduced an independently adjustable 12-hour hand. This quickset GMT function allowed the watch to track three time zones simultaneously; an important step forward from the dual-time capabilities of its predecessors. The added complexity required a thicker movement and, in turn, a larger case. Hence the nickname: substantial in both form and function. Ref. 16760 also debuted a new bezel insert in black and red, now affectionately known as the ‘Coke’ bezel.

Another milestone came with the introduction of a sapphire crystal, improving both durability and scratch resistance. Beneath it lies a glossy black dial with 18k white gold applied hour markers, replacing the matte painted style of earlier references. On this piece, time and age have worked their charm: the dial has developed a rich tropical brown hue, evenly speckled, with tritium lume that has aged into warm, orange tones. A notable quirk of these early dials is the so-called ‘non-date’ layout, where the text simply reads “Oyster Perpetual” instead of “Oyster Perpetual Date,” despite the watch of course retaining its date function.

Produced in 1984, just a year after the model’s debut, this watch embodies the first chapter of the GMT-Master II story. Its case remains thick and well-preserved. It comes with two bracelets, a Jubilee as well as an Oyster bracelet.

The ref. 16760 was only in production for a short span, but it set the tone for everything that followed in the GMT line. This early example, with its rare misprint bezel and beautifully patinated dial, captures the moment Rolex turned a proven tool watch into something far more versatile and unmistakably iconic.