One of the many reasons we prefer vintage over modern watches is the way they can age over time. No two watches develop in exactly the same way, and this Rolex Submariner from 1969 is a perfect example of just how beautiful that process can be.

Introduced in 1969, the reference 1680 was the first Rolex Submariner to feature a date window at 3 o’clock. It marked an important step in the evolution of the Submariner, turning what had originally been developed as a purpose-built diving watch into something increasingly suitable for everyday use.

The first thing that immediately speaks to us is the stunning matte MK2 dial. These dials have the potential to turn tropical over time and, luckily for us, that is exactly what happened here. What originally left the factory as a black dial has gradually changed into a beautiful brown tone. Not unusual for an MK2 dial, but this one specifically displays an incredibly appealing chocolate-like hue. This Singer-made dial with grainy finish, features the characteristic red-over-white Submariner printing also seen on the earlier MK1, although the font is noticeably thinner. Another recognizable detail is found in the depth rating, where the 6s are open, leaving a small gap in the loop. The earlier 1680's have a 'Meter first" depth rating. The tritium hour markers have aged to a warm creamy tone, perfectly matched by the tritium in the original Mercedes handset.

The ageing continues with the bezel. This 1680 originally left the factory with a black aluminium bezel insert, which has since faded to a soft grey tone that works beautifully with the tropical dial and warm tritium. It is exactly this combination that makes vintage watches so interesting to us. Another Submariner may have started life looking almost identical, but more than half a century later, no two have aged in quite the same way. All of this can be enjoyed through the domed plexiglass, which in this case is fitted without a Cyclops, giving an unobstructed view of that remarkable dial.

The watch has clearly been worn with pride over the years and remains in good, honest and original condition. It comes on its folded Oyster bracelet, complete with the rare clasp featuring the misspelled “pateted” marking. Altogether, it is a wonderfully characterful example of an early Red Submariner and a perfect illustration of why we love vintage watches in the first place.