There are countless details to consider when valuing a Submariner, yet the crown guards are rarely the first to draw attention. Here, however, they deserve a moment of pause. Take a closer look... they are square!

For those new to vintage tool watches, that detail might seem trivial. For the seasoned collector, it is anything but. Early Submariners -and Rolex tool watches more broadly- were originally produced without crown guards. Their introduction came as a practical response: the crown proved to be the most vulnerable component. A simple knock could bend the stem, compromising the watch’s waterproof integrity. The solution seemed straightforward: protect it. Yet, as is often the case, refinement required experimentation.
The earliest attempt resulted in these distinctive square crown guards. Visually striking, but not entirely practical, as their shape made winding and setting the crown less intuitive. As a result, this configuration was produced only briefly, during the earliest run of the reference 5512 in 1959. Legend has it that surplus cases were later repurposed by Tudor, while others were reshaped into what collectors now refer to as “eagle beaks.”

We are pleased to confirm that the present example has escaped such alterations. In fact, that integrity extends throughout the watch. It still retains its exceptionally rare bezel insert with the iconic red triangle; an element that alone would warrant attention. Then there is the dial, which ultimately captures the eye. These galvanically produced gilt dials are known to evolve over time, reacting to their environment in unpredictable ways. Sometimes the result is less than desirable; other times, it borders on artistry. Here, the transformation is nothing short of remarkable. The rich tropical patina lends the watch a warmth and individuality that collectors deeply covet. The layout remains elegantly simple, with just two lines of text. While often associated with the non-chronometer 5513, the closed chapter ring reveals its true identity; reserved for its more precise and prestigious counterpart. The silver depth rating adds a subtle, refreshing contrast.

The case has been sensitively restored, preserving its original proportions while enhancing its presence on the wrist. As expected from a watch that was worn as intended, the serial between the lugs has softened with time. The final digits are no longer legible, but the first three remain clear; and crucially so, as this rare square crown guard configuration is confined to the 4.7 million serial range. Completing the watch is an American-made riveted Oyster bracelet.