Platinum Hagman case and 'Tuscan' dial!

A rare convergence of craftsmanship, artistry, and horological legacy — the 25561PT is not just a perpetual calendar; it is a celebration of the golden age of Swiss watchmaking, elevated further by its exquisite and seldom-seen components.

At first glance, the Tuscan dial captivates: its finely grained, hand-finished texture dances in the light, offering a visual depth rarely seen. The deep, metallic blue pairs elegantly with the eccentric platinum case, radiating both sophistication and playfulness. To make the design even more dynamic; the sub-dials have a smooth finish, just like the periphery of the dial, where one can find the minute track. The no-nonsense hands and markers, along with the white printing, provide contrast to the lively background and ensures its legibility.

We briefly mentioned the housing, which measures 36mm and is made out of platinum. But more importantly, the producer is the legendary Jean-Pierre Hagmann; who, unfortunately, recently passed away. There are very few examples known with these decorative 'knots' on the bezel, either under this reference:25561, or its predecessor 5561.

Equipped with Audemars Piguet’s legendary Caliber 2120/2800, this ultra-thin, self-winding movement tracks not only the day, date, month, and moonphase — but does so perpetually, adjusting automatically for leap years. The movement is a marvel of engineering, built on the foundational ébauche by Jaeger-LeCoultre and refined to Audemars Piguet’s uncompromising standards.

As the watch industry was buckling under the weight of the quartz crisis, Audemars Piguet introduced the world’s thinnest automatic movement with a perpetual calendar complication. The resulting line of precious metal dress watches was in production from 1978 until the 1990s, ours dates back to 1985; according to the extract of the archives.

The significance of the automatic perpetual calendar line is twofold. For one, it signaled Audemars Piguet’s return to its roots as a maker of high complications. Quite something at a time when the watch industry was experiencing a life-threatening crisis. Second, these watches, along with the recently introduced Royal Oak, allowed the company to grow rapidly while most of its competitors struggled or went under.