Among the most important neo-vintage Pateks in existence, this is one of only four known 3970EPs fitted with a salmon dial, Breguet numerals, and matching Breguet hands.

The combination of a chronograph and a perpetual calendar has long been regarded as the pinnacle of traditional watchmaking complications. Introduced in 1986, the reference 3970 did not emerge in isolation; rather, it was the culmination of decades of refinement and technical mastery at Patek Philippe.

Beginning with the case, this example is a reference 3970E, with the “E” standing for the French word Étanche, meaning waterproof. From the second series onward, Patek Philippe equipped the 3970 with a screw-down caseback, thereby creating one of the very first water-resistant Grand Complications. This watch retains both its solid caseback and sapphire exhibition caseback.

In keeping with Patek Philippe tradition, the 3970 was produced exclusively in precious metals: yellow gold, pink gold, white gold, and platinum. Platinum examples are by far the rarest, and this particular watch is presented in that most coveted metal. The case measures 36mm, slightly smaller than both the references 2499 and 1518. Its three-piece construction gives the watch substantial presence on the wrist, enhanced by the elegant concave bezel. The case flanks feature four recessed correctors for the perpetual calendar functions, while the stepped lugs remain remarkably sharp and strong. Crisp hallmarks further testify to the exceptional condition of the case.

The sapphire display back offers a view of the magnificent CH 27-70 Q movement, a caliber based on a Lemania ébauche but extensively reworked by Patek Philippe. Beyond the addition of the perpetual calendar module, the movement was meticulously finished and decorated to the standards expected of the manufacture. The result is a caliber that is not only technically robust, but visually breathtaking. One need only observe the beautifully executed anglage and Geneva striping to appreciate the level of craftsmanship on display.

Few watches achieve the visual harmony of the 3970 dial layout. Surrounded by an open minute track, the dial balances a remarkable amount of information while remaining effortlessly elegant and legible. Above the signature sit the faceted apertures displaying the day and month. The recessed subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock display the chronograph minute counter with leap-year indication, and the running seconds with 24-hour indication respectively. At 6 o’clock, the moonphase and date complete one of the most celebrated dial designs in modern horology.

What truly elevates this example into another league entirely, however, is its configuration. To commemorate the opening of the new Geneva Salon in 2006, Patek Philippe produced four special sets of the 3970, one in each metal, all featuring applied Breguet numerals and matching hands. Breguet numerals have always been associated with the most desirable and collectible Patek Philippe watches, and for generations they have represented the pinnacle of elegance and rarity. Combine that with a salmon dial, itself one of the most sought-after traits among collectors, and the result is, without question, the most coveted configuration of the four.

This very watch was also the first 3970EP of this type ever to appear publicly on the market. In 2013, it achieved CHF 250,000 at Christie’s; a strong result at the time. Today, the market has evolved dramatically, with the most recent public sale exceeding CHF 1.5 million. Such results underline the growing appreciation for the reference 3970 and confirm its rightful place among the great complicated Pateks of this era.

Over its two decades in production, the 3970E established itself as the backbone of Patek Philippe’s complicated collection. Production ultimately concluded in the mid 00's with this final execution, and like the references 1518 and 2499 before it, the 3970 has since become part of horological legend. Those references have long represented the epitome of collectability, cemented as some of the most iconic complicated wristwatches ever produced. A compelling argument can now be made that the 3970 is destined for the very same status. At the very top of that hierarchy sit examples such as this: extraordinarily rare, historically important, and immensely desirable.

Offered as a complete set with its original box, papers, and accompanying documentation. Fitted with a Patek Philippe crocodile strap and platinum deployant clasp.