Patek Philippe Calatrava 565
Collecting watches is a journey.
Patek Philippe CalatravaIn 1932, Patek Philippe & Cie - which was the brand’s formal name - introduced one of the most iconic watches ever made.
Collecting watches is a journey. For most watch collectors Patek Philippe is the final destination. However, once you have reached the final station named Patek, you will discover there are more levels to it and the Calatrava is the final one.Collecting Calatrava watches is a subject in its own right. The gentlemen who own these type of watches are the men who have a sophisticated taste for the finer things in life. They only appreciate the best of the best and therefore, they join the family of Patek Philippe owners. We, at Amsterdam Vintage Watches, have got these men covered with this Patek Philippe 565. The 31mm-measuring reference 96 (see background story below) was considered too small by many men. Therefore, in 1938, the 35.5mm-measuring reference 565 and 570 were introduced. Even though, this size was considered rather large for that era, sales took off. Especially, the 570 was very popular. The 565 was intended to be sportier. It was available in steel (this one is made of 18k yellow gold) and the case with integrated lugs had a more streamlined design. The 18k yellow-gold applied Breguet index is a feature that is highly sought-after and popular among collectors nowadays. This example dates back to 1946 and has a subdial at the 6-hour position that indicates the seconds. What we truly hold dear about this watch are the beautifully shaped, elegant hands. Furthermore, the watch comes with its Extracts from the Archives.
Patek Philippe CalatravaIn 1932, Patek Philippe & Cie - which was the brand’s formal name - introduced one of the most iconic watches ever made. Namely, the benchmark for all dress watches ever produced. We are talking about the Calatrava and more specifically, the reference 96. The name Calatrava comes from the Calatrava cross, a symbol that was used by the Spanish military order named the Orden de Calatrava. The reference 96 was the first one in line. Its design was modern, luxurious and minimalistic or actually, according to the Bauhaus (German art school) principles “form follows function”. Purely focused on practicality and functionality and therefore, a Calatrava always is a time-only watch. The first reference measured 31mm in diameter, had a round case of just 9mm thick, a flat-polished bezel and tapered lugs integrated in the case design. It came in various variations, for instance a central- and a decentral-second display version, models with no seconds indicator at all, pieces with Breguet numerals and variations with steel cases (highly sought-after) rather than gold ones. A fun fact: Patek Philippe is worldwide known for its high-quality, complicated, refined movements. However, for roughly the first two years, the movements were bought from LeCoultre. From 1934, the in-house calibre 12-120 was used.