The ref. 570 was Patek Philippe’s answer to the question nobody was asking in 1938: can a dress watch be too big? At 35.5mm, apparently not.

The ref. 96, introduced in 1932, set the design language of the Calatrava. Clean lines, a round case and very little decoration, following the Bauhaus idea that form should follow function. The ref. 570 kept that same formula but enlarged it for those who wanted a little more presence on the wrist. With its thin, curved lugs, polished flat bezel and simple crown bearing the raised Calatrava cross, it remains a recognisable and beautifully balanced design. No unnecessary details, just a watch that makes a very good case for keeping things simple. The overall condition of the case is particularly impressive, with sharp lugs and a bezel that has retained its definition spectacularly. These are exactly the details that make a difference on a vintage watch. Because this is a later version of the 570, the hallmarks are stamped underneath the lugs.

One detail worth mentioning is the central seconds hand. The ref. 570 was available with both central and subsidiary seconds, and this example has the former. This is confirmed by the hand-wound calibre 27 SC, where ‘SC’ stands for ‘Seconde Centrale’, referring to the central seconds hand. Without a small seconds register interrupting the dial, the layout remains clean, while the sweeping seconds hand brings a little extra life to the otherwise minimal yet iconic design. Paired with the faceted Dauphine hands, it gives this Calatrava a slightly more modern feel than one might expect from a dress watch. It is a small detail, perhaps, but one that gives this particular configuration its own character.

The argenté dial features applied dots along the minute track and faceted hour markers, executed in 18k white gold to match the case. The way these markers catch the light is one of those details that makes you look twice, especially against the subtle grené finish. The dial has a charming satin appearance, and the cool tone of the metal works exceptionally well with its understated character. Together, they give this example a more discreet appearance than the yellow gold versions, without making it any less interesting. White gold examples are less common, as the ref. 570 was produced predominantly in yellow gold during its long production run from 1938 to 1972. For those who appreciate a slightly less obvious take on a classic Calatrava, this is a particularly appealing combination.

This 1967 ref. 570 comes on its original Patek Philippe crocodile leather strap, paired with a matching 18k white gold Patek Philippe buckle. It is accompanied by a service paper and an Extract from the Archives, completing the package nicely. A proper vintage Calatrava with a lot going for it.